Justified - Justin of Paso Robles
On Friday November 11, 2011, I visited Justin Vineyards and Winery in Paso Robles with friend and Roy’s wine buyer Michael Sanchez. The visit was special for a few reasons, mostly because it’s the first official visit to the winery since The Mark Wine Group started representing them, after Fiji Water acquired Landmark in Sonoma. We were representing Landmark, and through the acquisition, we were fortunate enough to have the opportunity to represent not only Fiji Water, but Justin also.
The other reason is because Roy’s has a special relationship with the company, using Fiji water in the restaurants, along with Landmark Chardonnay as a glass pour. In addition there is a long and storied relationship between Justin and Roy’s; Justin Cab is listed at all Roy’s and has been poured many times as the Cabernet by the glass over many years.
Paso Robles (Spanish for “Pass of the Oaks”) lived up to its name, a very enjoyable 25 minute drive from downtown Paso, where we met our host at Justin - Jim Gerakaris, Certified Sommelier and Wine Educator. From the first minute we engaged in conversation with Jim we knew we were in for a treat. Jim is an excellent ambassador for the winery, his knowledge of the winery is exceptional, and his passion for wine is clearly obvious. We were only 13 miles from the Pacific Ocean and were exposed to the storm from the west. It was a rainy day in Paso, but it was still great to be there.
As we looked into the vineyards and winery, even in the rain, the scenery was breathtaking. Brightly colored, large, but ornate winery buildings adorn the landscape, amongst perfectly manicured vines on rolling hills, the largest with a large Bordeaux style Chateau sitting on top (Justin’s residence), that should give you the image. Original proprietor and still figurehead for the winery, Justin Baldwin planted the vineyards around 1982, building the winery around the vision to produce a “First Growth” style blended red wine that would turn the wine world of Paso Robles into a major force on the national and international wine scene. And he did just that.
In 1997, Justin “Isosceles” won a blind tasting against the world’s best, and subsequently received the coveted Gold Medal at the London International Wine and Spirits Competition for the best blended red Bordeaux style (1994 Justin Isosceles). It was a real feather in the cap for Justin and Paso Robles. Only about 50 wineries existed back then in Paso Robles. One judge wanted to know what part of Spain Paso Robles was in!
Isosceles is without a doubt the flagship wine of Justin. The first vintage of the winery was called “Justin Reserve”, but starting in 1989 Isosceles was born – the idea was to blend just three grapes – the idea behind the Justin logo. The logo is an Isosceles triangle, one with two sides of equal length. Why two equal sides you ask? While Cabernet Sauvignon forms the base of the blend, in earlier vintages Cabernet Franc and Merlot formed the other two equal parts of the classic Medoc blend. Many people wonder if the Isosceles label is masonic or mystical, but we were reassured by Jim that it was all hype. The wine spends about 24 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle, and nowadays the blend will change based on vintage but always Cabernet Sauvignon based. The ’08 Isosceles, the current release, 1% of Petite Verdot was blended in addition to the three main grapes. “It’s a game time decision by the winemaker Fred Holloway” Jim told us.
Geologically rich, the soils in the vineyards contain high percentage of clay sub soil, the reason the vineyards are dry farmed (clay retains some
moisture for the vines), and a high percentage of limestone, lending that structure of acidity and minerality that is evident in all the wines. Since the winery was acquired by Fiji, they have begun a shift from not only working with 25 long term “estate growers”, to the addition of 300+ acres of vineyards, recently purchased, that should come online in the next 3-5 years. Reading Justin’s newsletter “Justin Times” I was interested to learn of other Justin vineyards being replaced after 30 years.
Interestingly enough, the young vines struggle just as much as older vines to produce a more concentrated berry. In addition to clay and limestone, the vineyards are rich in volcanic soils. Being so close to the ocean (13 miles as the crow flies), there is a huge diurnal shift in heat, 100 degree summer daytime temperatures turn into very cool 50 degree nights, providing the necessary relief the grapes need to maintain that precious acidity. In the winery, the precious harvest is sorted “by the grape”, and every care is taken to ensure the most meticulous standards of wine production are met. Attention to detail is paramount at Justin, and a way of life.
Continuing the growth and awards, in 2000 Isosceles received the number six spot in Wine Spectator Top 100 wines, and this is catapulted Justin’s name in recognition around the states.
We ventured through the impressive caves, the barrel storage and the Isosceles Library room within the depths of the caves, finally ending up at the club lounge (Justin Society boasts around 11,500 members).
First we tasted the Sauvignon Blanc with a crisp Sancerre style, amazing French like, lip smacking acidity and minerality. The Chardonnay was deliciously balanced. Justin is not known for whites, but these do not disappoint, on the contrary.
Justin Cabernet Sauvignon, the workhorse for the winery is a restaurant By The Glass favorite everywhere – always a Top 20 Cabernet in the Annual Restaurant Poll by Wine & Spirits Magazine. This year it was the #9 Wine The Glass pour in the U.S for all wines! Softer tannins, makes food “look good."
Next wine - Justin “Justification”, where did the name some from? Justin was justified in switching the order of the predominant grape to Cabernet Franc (instead of Merlot) in this delicious St. Emilion styled red.
We tasted a 2008 Isosceles, followed by the 2000 in half bottle. Everything is so meticulously driven by the winery in production, that even in a challenging year like 2008 the wine was nothing short of superb. 2000 was opening up like a flower, but still amazingly youthful in structure. Both were drop dead gorgeous wines.
Next was “Savant” - 68% Syrah, 32% Cab….partially barrel fermented Syrah provides deep layering, spice early on, more licorice tones as it develops. Jim explained it like this “It’s our version of an Aussie Shiraz/Cab with manners. Food friendly version with elegance.”
The winery is in the next chapter of its storied life, and it looks like everything is on track for a lot more success.
